Spinning, Weaving, and Sewing Kimono Fabrics - by Jay, Nebraska

With today's ready-made clothing, it is hard to imagine and recall a time in the not too distant past when clothing was made at home, sometimes from absolute scratch, from the spinning of the fibers to the stitches on the garment.

Kimono were stitched entirely by hand, and still are today by professional kimono tailors working in traditional methods. However, this doesn't necessarily mean it takes much longer than machine stitching. A technique of stitching called unshin was used, which consists of supporting the end of the needle on a thimble on the middle section of the middle finger, and the index and thumb pulling the fabric into the needle as the opposite hand moves the fabric back and forth, creating a quick running stitch. All seams were made in this way, so that it would be easy to later pick the stitches apart for cleaning or adjusting, and the subsequent resewing.

Looking at old images from Japan and existing tools, we see that thread was spun with what we now call a great wheel, resembling an Indian charkha wheel. The fiber is drawn out in long pulls, the twist coming from the rotation of the spindle. This thread was wound into wooden spools, to be used in weaving. This would be done with a loom set up with the narrow width of the tanmono bolt. In between all of these, there are various methods of weaving complex patterns, dyeing yarn and fabrics, and painting the fabric to add a unique touch to the final piece.

What is now a handicraft used to be a necessity to make clothing. I find that such crafts which in the past were done completely by hand can be some of the most expressive forms of art by a culture. Every step involves an artisan putting their life and the touch of their own hands into their creation, and from the making of the thread to the final garment, we can see and feel the life of those artisans in every aspect of the finished product. -by Jay, Nebraska