Kyo Yuzen Dyed Silk 京友禅

Kyo Yuzen

A hand-painting technique called tegaki yuzen

Kyo Yuzen was developed in Kyoto during the Edo period of the mid to late 17th century. Back then, there was an artist by the name of Miyazaki Yuzensai, who was known for his exquisite drawings on folding fans. He had perfected a rice paste-dyeing method and from this sprung what is known today as the Kyo Yuzen technique. From folding fans, Yuzensai then ventured to designing Kimonos. He was inspired mainly by the persistent demand and relentless support of his patrons. With his innate gift, he quickly made a name for himself in the Kimono design scene in Kyoto, hence giving birth to the name of the dyeing method he pioneered, Kyo(to) Yuzen.

There are 20 artisans involved for the yuzen dyed process.  The first step involves sketch artists drawing the design motif. Then the design outlines are starched using the glue called itome-nori. After this process, the cloth is washed and then stretched out to receive a base coating of gojiru, or soybean broth. Then it is immediately set to dry before a fire. This process helps to soak the itome-nori into the fabric and it ensures that the dyes run smoothly. Probably the most important step is the application of the dye using a brush on the itome-nori starched cloth. For the finishing touch, additional decorations like gold leaves and intricate embroidery are applied. 

Created for the higher echelons of society, such as members of the imperial court, Kyo Yuzen is all about showing off the finer things in life. (why not?) Typical Kyo yuzen designs can be spotted by their intricate patterns, which are not afraid to incorporate elaborate silver and gold leaf embroidery into their design.

Yoko Beverly Hills is collaborating with Kyoto Prefecture to introduce 1200 years of Kyoto culture. Check out the videos of Kyo Yuzen that Kyoto Prefecture shared with us.
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youtube/kyoyuzen1