Ai - Zome Indigo Dyed 藍染

Ai-zome is a natural indigo dyeing technique originated in Japan since Edo Era (1603 - 1868) when brighter colors were reserved for the higher social classes. The lower classes were also banned from wearing silk which left cotton as the only option, so aizome and cotton made a durable team. By the 17th century, Indigo had become widely regarded not just for its robust color, but also its antibacterial and insect-repellent properties. Known as an effective odor-preventing dye, aizome clothing also provided skin relief for people suffering from eczema. The samurai wore indigo clothing to prevent wound infections, and firefighters favored indigo fabric for its flame retardant properties. The color blue is also believed to be protection from evil.

The indigo plant actually has green leaves, and it takes about a year to produce the characteristic blue color. Many methods of extraction exist, but the most common technique in Japan involves the fermentation of the leaves. The process begins with sun-drying the indigo leaves followed by an intensive fermentation to make sukumo. Next, the concentrated dye component is integrated with lime, and other substances in a dyeing vat and re-fermented before it is ready to use. The actual process of Aizome dyeing can create many different shades of blue depending on the level of fermentation, the product in use, and the dyeing time. The solution itself appears black, but once the fabric dries it takes on a unique shade of blue due to exposure to air. Depending on the number of dips, the colour of the blue deepens, with each shade given a unique name. Aijiro indigo is the lightest shade closest to white, while noukon indigo is the darkest shade closest to black. The whole Ai-Zome process usually on cotton or silk, spans over three hundred days from planting to the creation of the dye pigments, including dipping and soaking into the indigo liquor ever twenty times to bright out the rich color.

With modern irrigation indigo can grow in almost every prefecture of Japan today; however, originally the highest yield came from the Shikoku region, where indigo dye production was first born in the tenth century. Indigo grew throughout Shikoku but flourished mainly in towns around Tokushima and Kagawa. The climate of Tokushima, its rich soil, and abundant water from the Yoshino River created ideal conditions for the harvest of the Indigo plant.

Please check out indigo dyed kimono fabrics at Yoko Beverly Hills.

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