A Personal Journey with Japanese Textile Culture - by Jay, Nebraska

Handmade Haori Jacket by Jay, Nebraska

Knowing nothing much about Japan or Japanese culture, I decided to read Musashi, a best-selling novel about the most famous Japanese swordsman. With all the references to Japanese traditional culture, I became interested in Japan’s architecture, clothing, food, instruments, etc. I had made my own clothes in the past, but this type of clothing I was completely unfamiliar with. I wanted to do some research and found examples of Japanese clothing and books on kimono tailoring at the Japanese library on my university campus.

I was surprised while learning about the completely different construction of these garments, being made with a single bolt of narrow (about 14 inch) fabric, as opposed to the 45- or 60-inch bolts I had always seen at fabric stores. I also admired the resourcefulness, as little of the fabric or even seam allowances are trimmed off, with the expectation that the fabric would be reused in the future. This is also made possible by the rectangular shape of the garments, using up as much of the fabric without waste.

This contrasts with a culture of waste, where people buy cheap items or clothing with the expectation of throwing them away eventually, without considering any reuse or repair. Not only does this hurt the environment, but it also affects the quality of goods, as manufacturers and artisans who make high quality goods are less likely to do so if their customers choose instead to buy cheap goods. However, there are things that anyone can do, such as buying goods that they know will last them and can be recycled or reused at the end of their useful lifespan. Cheap clothes are often made from cheaper synthetic fabrics such as polyester, which isn’t comfortable to wear, traps odors, and in the laundry, releases microplastics into the water. Many kimono fabrics use natural fibers such as silk, wool, cotton, and hemp, which are very breathable, need less frequent washing, and are biodegradable.

Kimono were traditionally bought in the bolt and tailored for the individual, then cared for and possibly later reused. I believe this reflects a culture of care, attention, and respect to the garments we wear and items we use, as opposed to a culture of junk and throwing away items. With kimono being relatively simple to make, anyone with basic sewing skills can make them good enough to wear, making it accessible for many people.

I am currently in the process of making kimono from scratch, starting from fibers from plants or animals, spinning it into thread, weaving it into fabric, and sewing it into a garment. I am doing this for fun, but I also seek the exhilaration and connection that I can have with a piece of clothing that I have been with for nearly every step of the making process (except for the growing of the plants or animals used for the fiber, but maybe I’ll get to that later).

I see kimono as an opportunity to become more involved in the things that I wear and to make this part of my life filled with meaning, art, and beauty.

—by Jay, Nebraska